Archive for the 'Custom Action Figure' Category

27
Jun
14

Vitruvian H.A.C.K.S.

1/18 scale action figures made with customizers in mind? Yes please! Boss Fight Studio has a new line of highly articulated action figures coming out.

hacks_poses

 

Cool, yeah? They’re designed to come apart without too much trouble, but not fall apart from just handling them. Given that I make custom figures, I’m all over these. There’s a Kickstarter going for it, right now. It’s funded, but there are still stretch goals to meet.  And, they don’t just have undecorated blanks, either. They’ve got Spartans in full hoplite armor, along with other ancient Greek warriors. (Yes, you can get 300 Spartans) At 700 backers, they’ll add Amazons to the mix. You know what else they have?

 

hacks_medusa

 

GORGONS!

 

hacks_coral

Check out those articulated tails. I need this in my life. One of the stretch goals is articulated skeletons. Get your Harryhausen on!

 

They’re not just sticking to Greco-Roman mythology. They’ve shown previews for half-orcs, and phoenix knights. And, a robot. There’s a retro sci-fi line planned, alongside the mythology and fantasy. Yeah, I’m looking forward to these. A lot of other 1/18 scale customizers are. Any of this sound interesting to you? Then hit that Kickstarter! I don’t back many Kickstarters, (this is my second) but I’ve backed this one. I hope you will too.

26
Apr
14

Pinks

pinks1

 

This was destined to happen. I’ve recently been buying Mega Bloks Call of Duty figure packs, they’re just about 1/32 scale. I’ve had that 1/32 scale ’73 Trans Am for several years, and the 1/18 scale ’72 for a couple. Something like this was bound to pop into my head.

15
Dec
13

More Tales From the Garage

garage2

I’ve been slowly modifying that die-cast Mustang. It’s a cheap one, from Sam’s Club. Given the price a lot of die-cast cars go for, I’d be hesitant to cut into one. These go for so little, it’s pretty much game on. Most of the changes to this one will be relatively minor, with a super charger and air ducting  under the hood being the most drastic changes.

It’ll be getting new low mounted rally lights pulled from a 1/24 scale model to replace the ones in the grill that I’m turning into air intakes. New rocker panels are halfway finished, and I’ll be making a matching piece to replace the ugly black trim part that wraps around the bottom back of the car. The model is missing an accent line that should start on the doors and extend back in an arch to the quarter panels. I’ll be making the hard line from that out of styrene sheet, and feathering it into the bodywork with sanding and Fixit Sculpt. The final paint job will be two-tone red, with a thin gold stripe between. New wheels are planned, and I’ve already replaced the plastic steering column with a new one made of brass. It’s taken most of the slop out of the steering, and the wheels hold their positions better.

Yes, I am probably the only person in the world that cares about slop in the steering of a toy car.

I’ve slightly lowered the front ride height. The rear ride height was a little too low, from the factory. Together, it makes it look like an evenly lowered car. I’m not much into the whole “stancing” thing, but I’m seeing this as a “street fighter” type car, modified for better handling.  A diffuser on the front, and  tonneau cover where the rear seat used to be, along with a roll bar will round out the look. I’m also hoping to replace the seats with better sized and shaped ones. The current ones are too small. Current plan is to scratch build one and cast it.

This car something of a practice piece. I’ll be working on a similar one from the same manufacturer to make a very different looking car. That one will be turned into a fast back styled hard top, and made to look like a 2013/2014 car, instead of the 2010+ style it comes modeled after. That one will get a similar lowering in the front, but have the rear end raised. I figure that will help give it a completely different attitude from the convertible. More of a brawler, to the this car’s dancer.

I just hope my reach doesn’t exceed my grasp….

20
Nov
13

Iron Man ARMaments

I wanted to give one of my Iron Man figures the modular arm mechanism from the IM3 Assemblers line. Seemed straightforward enough; Swap out the joint pieces in the shoulders with the ones from a pair of Assemblers arms, then drill out the torso to take the Assemblers sockets.

Simple, sure….

I bought a Crosscut armor, for its red joint pieces, started cutting shoulders apart, and it became readily apparent that the parts from the Crosscut armor were much larger than the ones in the figure I was trying to modify. I even tried with a spare Mk.VI, with the same result. So, I bought a Striker armor, to try again. The shoulders were still too big, and a quick check showed they’re the same size as the shoulder parts from the white and black space armor. (which has the most delicate looking arms of any of the Assemblers I’ve seen) The Striker parts were at least small enough I could grind them down to make them work. I got the shoulder parts swapped, and started on modding the torso.

Drilled the top of the mid torso joint right off, ruining my favorite IM figure that I own. I refuse to accept defeat, with my favorite Iron man.  042 Drill bits; brass rod; styrene tube; GAME ON!

So anywho, this is what I ended up with:
im_arms1 im_arms2 im_arms3 im_arms4 im_arms5 im_arms6

halm

08
Nov
13

Building a Better MOUSER

In my last post, I made reference to possibly adding ball jointed ankles to those little TMNT MOUSER figures. Figuring that one of the black MOUSERs would be a good test bed, on the grounds that that’s the easiest to paint over any patch work if I totally botch the attempt. Turned out, it went pretty well. Drilling into the legs did leave some stress marks, but I was able to mostly eliminate those, by just scratching them out with my thumbnail. Learned that little trick, when I was a kid. Never one to leave good enough alone, I went ahead and cut the legs off at the hips, and added ball joints there, too. One hip wound up being a little bit closer to the body than the other. It’s not that noticeable, and both hips sit pretty close to the torso. This limits their lateral movement, but still lets them move outward a bit. Happy with that, I repeated the whole process on a silver MOUSER.

mouser_joints1

I was careful to keep the hips more even this time, and moved them a little bit farther out to allow wider footed stances. Unfortunately, I got one of the ankles just a little too far back in the end of the leg. It’s pretty minor, so I’m gonna leave it. I’m not good at tutorials, and the way I work every third step is “Locate small black plastic part on black work surface.” Basically, the hips are cut by just slipping the X-acto blade blade between the leg and the torso, and pushing it into the hip peg. I like to go part way through from one side, and finish from the other. The feet are cut off similarly, cutting at whatever angle feels right, as close as I could get to the molded in detail. The ball joints are Lego levers; the little bits that plug into slotted hemispherical bases, and work as all kinds of detail pieces from antennas to levers. These are just the lever section, and the part that plugs into the base is cut off. I bought 200 of these for a penny or two a piece off Brick Link, a couple of years ago. I bought them to ball joint the hands on GI Joe figures, a trick I learned from Miko Matsing.

The sockets were drilled out with small drill bits in pin vises. I find it easier to start with small bits, then work up to the size I need. After that, I hollowed them with a spherical engraving bit in a moto tool. I’ve got a cheap single speed from Harbor Freight I use. Its size makes it feel less clumsy than my Dremel. There are two types of these bits; diamond abrasive, and high-speed bur/cutter. The abrasive bits work great on ABS plastic. The MOUSER legs are not made from ABS plastic. They’re made from an engineering plastic I believe to be from the nylon family. It’s slippery, and a little flexible, but not rubbery. It will laugh at your abrasive bit, and leave it crying in the corner. You want the bur/cutter style bit. Be sure to use one that’s smaller than the ball you’re hollowing out the socket for. You’ll end up making the opening too big, with a large bur.

Tooling the nylon like that will raise a lot of little plastic fuzz sticking off the piece. It will mock your attempts pull or cut it off. Remove what you can, and move on. (or, nuke the site from orbit, if you want to be sure.)

All the pieces should now just pop back toogether, giving you a MOUSER that can stand with his feet flat on the ground, without having to have them side by side. The pose in these pictures gives an idea of the range of motion.

mouser_joints2mouser_joints3

 

And, one with the feet together:

mouser_joints5

 

mouser_joints4

22
Oct
13

Intruders in the Warehouse

Seems security is getting a little lax, around the GTHI warehouse. But, the Greyryder is on the case!

mousers1

 

I might have had a little help, from Fenra.

mousers2

 

Pronouns get interesting, when you create a character based on your online handle. 😉

 

The little guys are M.O.U.S.E.R.S. (That is the last time I’m typing that as an acronym) from the current Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles line. I don’t collect the line, mostly because I’m a 1/18 scale snob. Most of the figures in that line seem a little more stylized than I usually like, too. I saw these guys over on Matt Booker’s blog, and thought they looked like a lot of fun.  Now, I’m a bit of an articulation junky, and these guys don’t have a lot. Their hips are simple, just swinging back and forth, their heads are on ball joints and the jaws open. Technically, the jaws are on ball joints, and the tops of the heads open, but semantics, whatever. I’ve forgiven figures for lacking articulation in the past, if they have personality, and these Mousers have personality. Unlike a lot of GI Joe figures, the ball joints at the tops of the necks aren’t restricted to simple swivel joints. They’re stable with the bodies leaned all the way forward. This lets them have a variety of postures. You can create personalities for them, just by posing them with different body language. Did I mention, you get seven of them, in each package? Yeah, troop building pack done right. I didn’t look at other packages to see if the color assortments are consistent, but mine came with three of the silvery guys, two of the darker gray ones (who are still kind of metallic) and two of the black ones.

 

Now, I mentioned the articulation, and how I like a lot of it. I don’t want anyone to think I’m being overly critical. These little guys have very thin legs. Realistically, you’re not going to get much more articulation in them. You could maybe ball joint the hips, and I think the ankles have enough bulk I might be able to use Lego levers to put ball joints in those. But articulating the knees, I don’t think would be possible, without bulking up the legs. And, I think that would spoil their look. I only want to add jointing to the ankles so I they can be posed standing without their feet being right side by side.

08
Oct
13

Everyone’s a Critic

After a couple of posts with genuine artwork, we’re back to stupid toy pictures. 🙂

Lots of action figure collectors take pictures of their figures, in cool looking action poses. Well, I can pose too.

grey_pose1

But, some people just can’t let that be….

critic1




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