Archive for the 'Confusion' Category

28
Jul
16

Random Thought

What if the wolf was an innocent land owner, and the three little pigs were illegal squatters, who made themselves out to be the victims, to anyone who listen?

21
May
15

The Truck-Cat Lives

Finally getting close to finishing this thing. Mostly need to finish the new chase rack and the light bars. The rack is just set in place, in these pictures. I was more and more unhappy with the first one I built. It doesn’t have mounting feet, yet. It still needs tabs to attach the light bars, and I want to add some small tie downs to it. Those will probably just be little tabs, with holes in them for hooks or scale rope. Still need to get the fuel filler painted, too.

 

truck31

Continue reading ‘The Truck-Cat Lives’

01
May
15

Old Times: Part Deux

Did you know that Windows has a built in backup, that can create and restore a disk image? Pity it also has to completely wipe the existing partitioning to do it. Doesn’t matter if you’re only trying to restore a single partition…. Continue reading ‘Old Times: Part Deux’

20
Mar
15

I’m Still Here

No pictures, this time through. I just felt the need to post something. Real life kind of hit me upside the head, so I’ve not felt like working on much of anything, for last month or so. Most of my energy has gone towards expanding my comic into a couple of side comics. Comic Press is kind of clumsy, with multi-comic sites, and converting the site over to a network was a massive pain. Nothing ever seems to work the way it’s supposed to.

 

I’m back to working on the RC truck-cat thing, however slowly. Just trying to get the body painted, right now. Spent a few hours last night replacing the brake pads on the thing with new ones cut from a Formica sample. (Matte finished travertine, it was all Lowe’s had in the sample rack.) I’m hoping the more slippery surface will help tame the steering. The super thick diff oil has helped, but stainless steel pads on stainless steel disks lack finesse. The steering goes abruptly from wide, gradual turn to a snap turn with one track locked up.

 

I guess, there’s a reason differential breaking fell out of favor on full-sized tracked vehicles. I have ideas in my head involving cut down crawler axles driven by two 55 or 80 turn motors. But, lets not go there.

25
Jan
15

Still Truckin’

What’s this? Three posts in one month? Almost in a single week!? Madness! This post is back to my RC truck thing, and it’s really long, so I’ll use the “read more” break tag thing, which I just discovered in the tool bar. Continue reading ‘Still Truckin’’

16
Sep
14

Still not Perfect

So, I finally got paint on the Mustang. And, immediately found more things that needed filled and sanded….

 

BUT, paint’s been going well, since then. There’s one spot on the passenger side front fender that’s going to need another shot of the base color, because the masking tape pulled off some small flecks. That’s been the only real problem, so far. As I’m painting the car up like a WWII fighter plane, it’s got six colors going on it, not counting painted on trim, like the reflectors. Base coat is aluminum, the nose is guard’s red, the hood is olive drab (as will be the planned tonneau cover over where the back seat used to be) white and black invasion stripes are going on the front fenders as a nod to the fender stripes that some classic muscle and sports cars sport, and the back of the car will be yellow. All but the yellow are Model Master acrylic paints. The yellow will be Vellejo Model Color. It’s possible I may lose my mind, and paint the back end in a red and white checkered pattern instead, but I’m pretty sure it’ll be yellow. I don’t even want to think about masking a checker pattern. The angle of the separation between the base color and the yellow will be determined by the side pieces on the new rear spoiler. I’ve got the three piece spoiler off a Roush version of this same car, that will be going on this one.

 

mustang1_2 mustang1_3 mustang1_4

 

The body isn’t currently attached to the chassis, and the grill and headlights are just sitting in place. Everything but the OD green will be gloss clear coated. Honestly, I’m still not sure why the red has that semigloss look to it. I think the paint might have been too thick. (I airbrush) I think you can just make out where I did some polishing on the hood. Incidentally, Maas metal polish, used sparingly, works great on Model Master paint. I also know from past experience that it will attack Future floor polish, which is a popular choice for gloss coat among many modellers. Consider yourself warned. The aluminum paint, on the other hand, went down with a nice satiny sheen.

 

The side picture shows the contour lines that were giving me grief. See that crease that curves back from above the door handle? It was not cast into the body. I formed the edge with a thin strip of styrene plastic, then filled in around it with Fixit Sculpt, and blended it into the rest of the body. It was actually the straight line underneath it that caused the most trouble. The one on the passenger side is fine. I don’t get it. Those SVT wheels and tires are from GreenLight. They took very little work to fit the Maisto wheel bushings. The original wheels and tires were slightly over-sized. They filled the wheel wells nicely, but I’ve lowered this car at both ends. Besides, they also represented the stock Mustang wheels. These are a nicer looking design. I’m modding the other wheels into generic retro style five stars for a ’72 Trans Am. Still debating painting some olive drab on these GreenLight wheels.

 

The rally lights in the grill have been replaced with wire mesh intakes. I’ve got some mocked up tubing ends to put behind them, to look like functional cold air intakes. Got the wire mesh from a cheap tea ball I picked up at wal-mart. I’ve got some larger mesh, for another project, from a strainer also gotten on the cheap from wal-mart. The mesh flattens out easily, and holds whatever shape I put it in.

05
Sep
14

Perfect is the Enemy

“Perfect is the enemy of good” so the saying goes. I find that in my case, perfect is the enemy of getting things finished. I’m modifying one of those cheap die cast cars from Sam’s Club, (I understand Costco sells them, too.) into a street fighter type custom. Not that I’ve seen too many convertible street fighters, but I’ve seen guys mod station wagons into competitive race cars, so, why not. The body work on this car mostly involves new rocker panels and lower rear trim. The rockers are long finished, I haven’t started on the rear trim, yet. It’s an overly complicated shape to meet the body, so I’m still thinking it through and weighing my options. I’m also smoothing out the surround around the lower intake area on the front, and adding some curved accent lines on the body that the real car has and the model, for some reason, doesn’t. This is where my problem lies.

 

The body work on the sides is mostly finished. There’s another accent line below where the work was that’s gotten a bit messed up on one side. It was a soft detail to begin with, and I had to blend right down to it. I’ve gotten it to the point of “good enough.” No, the real fun is the front. Nice big flat surfaces. Simple, right? This work involved filing down a lip, then filling a large groove to extend the front bumper down. The filling was done with Ave’s Fixit Sculpt, but I didn’t get things quite as flat as I’d wanted. Primer made the imperfections visible, and I smoothed them out with Tamiya white putty and a sanding stick. Another coat of primer showed that it still wasn’t quite smooth. I really want to get this car finished, so I can move on to another one that I’m more interested in working on, but is going to need a lot more work.

 

I had it pretty close, so I said “Screw it, it’s good enough!”

 

That was three putty and sanding sessions ago….

mustang1_1

 

The bright white you’re seeing there is the Tamiya putty, the red is the factory paint. I mostly left the paint intact, just sanded it. It let me bring back a lot of the edges that were lost to either thick paint, or weird things die cast metal does when it cools after casting. I thought it might make good primer too, but I think my primer might actually be sticking better to the metal. Didn’t expect that out of acrylic model paint. If you look close, you can see some off white in there, too. That’s the Fixit Sculpt, where I’ve sanded through the primer. It’s getting painted, as it is.

 

No really. I mean it, this time.

 

If you’re wondering why I’m dedicating so much effort on such a cheap model, when there’s much nicer die cast cars out there? I’d rather screw up a twenty dollar car, than a hundred and twenty dollar car.

26
Apr
14

Pinks

pinks1

 

This was destined to happen. I’ve recently been buying Mega Bloks Call of Duty figure packs, they’re just about 1/32 scale. I’ve had that 1/32 scale ’73 Trans Am for several years, and the 1/18 scale ’72 for a couple. Something like this was bound to pop into my head.

04
Mar
14

Trolled

One corner of my small N scale model train layout is taken up by the Greytech Heavy Industries building. This is just a foot deep shelf layout, so it’s far from the entire complex modeled. It has recently come to my attention that the building, as modeled, is incapable of receiving one type of freight it’s supposed to handle. Specifically, steel coil cars. Many of the company’s products are made from heavy metal sheet, so there needs to be a way of unloading them. This requires a gantry crane. The steel coils can be unloaded by forklifts, but a crane is still needed to handle the covers on them.

 

This picture was taken some years back, the last time I was working on the trains.

hobb_creek1_big

 

That loading dock is fine, for box cars and flat cars. The track extended a little past it, and the plan was to put in some scale hoses for unloading air pressure operated covered hoppers commonly used for plastic pellets. It’s a technology company, they’re going to use a lot of plastic. Even if there was a place to put a gantry, there’s no place to move the coil car’s cover. SO…. I had hoped to take that two-story section on the far part of the building (what I consider the “old section”) and just move the wall forward. The side wall is still there, I could just cut a hole in, and build a door frame.

 

The corner wasn’t together too good, and I destroyed it trying to pull it apart. And, it’s just not long enough to house an entire train car. So, not only do I need to build an entire new building section, I have to cut out part of that warehouse/loading wing. Sometimes I feel like I’m being trolled by the modelling gods….

 

hobb_creek9_big

The Stay Puft Marshmallow Man has failed. The troll has risen.

 

 

That’s the current state of the GTHI building. I don’t have anything on hand to build the new section. What I do have is a program called “Model Builder.” (original, right?) It uses photo sourced textures to make paper models. It designed specifically, for model railroad scenery. Until now, I’ve only ever used it to make background flats for action figure diorama sets. The new section will only need two walls, and I’ll probably make the roof out of foam core. Eventually, it would be nice to replace the thing with something made from styrene, it should be fine, for now. I’ve never seen small-scale paper model buildings first hand, so maybe it’ll be good enough to be permanent. I’m also hoping to make a shallow flat to represent another part of the building, behind the four-story section. I mostly want to do that to push the four-story part out a little, mostly to improve the look of where the new unloading section will meet it. I should probably just replace the whole thing. That part is a twenty+ year old model, and its finish isn’t up to my current standards. For now, I’m hoping to eventually rehab it. I’m not too worried about the various bits not matching, since I’ve always envisioned the place as being a slightly erratic collection old brick buildings and annexes that have sort of grown together.

 

The place is probably so convoluted inside, David Bowie’s using it to raise a goblin army.

 

That building in the foreground of that second pictures is the unloading shed of a steel fabricator. They receive steel plate and structural shapes to build bridge and building components. Currently calling it Strogg Steel, after the cyborg antagonists from the Quake 2 and Quake 4 video games.

02
Mar
14

Tree

I’ve been messing with model trains again, lately. Finally got the damn things running smooth. That’s taking a disturbing amount of maintenance.

Anyway, the scenery is far from finished, and I want to finally start building the “tree tunnel” that I’ve always planned to mask where the trains enter and exit one end of the layout. In the past, I’ve made my trees from clump foliage on Woodland Scenics armatures. Still using the WS trees (I’ve got them, why not?) but decided to try a different product. I stretched some MRC cluster foliage over one of the WS tree armatures…. and didn’t like it. The dark green color I have seems awfully vivid on its own, and there’s a lot visible “hairs” among the foam in the stuff. I do, however, like all the negative space it creates, it has a similar “seeing through the leaves” effect as looking through a real tree. I tried sprinkling some ground foam over it, but I don’t really have that’s a similar shade. Most of what I have is lighter colored and far more drab. There is one thing I have on hand that’s a similar color; Woodland Scenics fine leaf foliage. It has a similar see through effect, and a lot of fine branches throughout. So, I tried gluing that over the stretched out fiber cluster.

tree1

I have to upgrade the rest of the trees on the layout, now….

Yeah, I’m really happy with the effect. The only problem is I don’t want all the trees to be the exact same shade, so I’ll have to get some more fine leaf foliage, in a different shade. I was already planning to order a couple of things from Fifer Hobby Supplies, so that goes on the list.




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